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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.